Monday, April 30, 2007

Frying at Radio Fragola

Sunday morning I got up early to come back to Trieste as Andrea and Chris had organised a group picnic at the outdoor concert run by Radio Fragola, one of the local radio stations here in Trieste. It was a beautiful day, but absolutely frying hot and we lay outside on the lawn at the hockey club (I had no idea that there was one here!) The music was a bit heavy going but the football was fun and it was lovely to get back together after a weekend away.
As usual for an event in Trieste there were loads of dogs, but it was also nice to see the kids out enjoying the sunshine - there aren't so many children here!

Saturday, April 28, 2007

Everything sorted

BIG thanks to David who came and cut enough of the weeds that the neighbours - and more importantly me - are satisfied with the garden. Its not beautiful, but at least its tidy. I'm not entering the most beautiful garden competition yet though, although it would seem that the rest of the street is pretty much...
Maybe in the summer...

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Weeds and bills

Real life after the masters is approaching fast. This was brought home to me today when I dashed back to my flat in Marche to be hit by a pile of bills, and weeds in the garden at least 1 metre tall - and about 10 cm thick.... I am now desperately seeking the gardener who was supposed to come and be keeping the place in check....

Red Bologna






25th April is Liberation Day in Italy - when the country was liberated from the Fascists after WWII. In Bologna, the red capital of Italy, it was cause for great celebration, with bands in the Piazza Maggiore and everyone else either on bikes, window shopping, or eating ice cream as they strolled around. There are more than 100,000 students registered at the University there, and I was particularly impressed with the two I saw on beanbags in the middle of the pedestrian zone...
The other things that I learnt about Bologna is that the food is great - the market was beautiful and loaded with fabulous fruit and veg, cheeses and breads - and that the light is also amazing for taking photos.

Bolognese Coffee

I thought that my love of the coffee in Trieste meant that I couldn't leave Italy but now I have discovered that the coffee in Trieste is also better than the coffee in other parts of Italy too. Wednesday was my first trip to Bologna - a beautiful city and full of people - but the coffee was really not a patch on what I am used to. I was in the Piazza Maggiore,looking at the sites, but dreaming of the coffee in La Portizza!

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Joanna in Chinatown

The cheap shop on the corner of Via Milano has just changed it's name. It has been called Jolly as long as I have been here and is now called Joanna - English spelling and everything! Its strange to walk past and see my name plastered in 8 inch letters all over the windows!

TLAs

TLAs - or three letter acronyms - were a central part of communication when I worked at the Foreign Office.
The most common TLA for us this year has been MBA - in its original meaning - not Married But Available from the singles ads (ugh!) or - as one professor told us - Mediocre But Arrogant.
But last week we heard a new three word phrase. The HR Director from a company counselled us against being too agressive in our search for jobs, and advised that we should be Ambitious But Humble in our attitudes. For the company in question this means accepting little or no pay for an internship with no guarantee of a job afterwards.
I would suggest that another three letter acronym might apply to this situation - Taking The Mickey!
There are a few more of us employed now though which is great. Congrats to Zazu, Massimiliano, Bianca, Nguyet, Chris and Wally. For the rest of us, the search continues...

On the road to Osmizze

Sunday morning after the ball we decided to go to Osmizze. Chris was the guide as usual - he has the most amazing ability to remember where the best places to go are. Sunday this meant that we went to a place on Via Commerciale, next to the tramline to Opicina, and looked down on the bay and out to sea.
Afterwards we went in the car to a place up in the Carso region where we spent the rest of the day...
The Osmizze culture is amazing. It is great to see that all the Triestine's make the most of the great weather and comb the countryside for the frascas that point the way. It always seems though that there is another information system going on - those in the know understand which are the places to go even without the frasce. Luckily for us, Chris is on the inside track, so , by extension, so are we!


Monday, April 23, 2007

Grand Gala @ MIB

The Ferdinandeo palace that is the home of our school was once used for grand parties back in the days of the Hapsburg empire. The hall was more or less returned to its previous use on Saturday night, as it was our annual ball and a good excuse to get dressed up and party.
The ball opened with a waltz. We knew this in advance, so we have been teaching the guys to waltz, which certainly turned a few heads on the waterfront in Barcola the other day! The waltz was 10 minutes, so there was a lot of time to fill. Massi and I shuffled around the floor for a while, then tangoed over to other dancing couples. After a few minutes Max got bored, so Percy galantly took over for the rest of the waltz. Very good fun!
The band were great and it was fun to party all together in our glad rags! The pasta at midnight is a great tradition too - and very welcomed by all of us!


Signs you are at home in Trieste

There are a few things that make me realise I am now at home in Trieste.
Seeing a dog walking around in a department store seems perfectly normal.
Following a bunch of leaves and a painted wooden arrow to a restaurant that only opens for 14 days doesn't seem unusual.
It's also normal to see people lying on the concrete by the sea and pretending its a beach - and I'm doing it too!
It's really a wonderful city to live in, and I will miss it when I have to leave, in only a short amount of time.

Friday, April 13, 2007

Back to school bbq

After a night in Cagliari - with the most amazing food at the 4 Mori restaurant - an unending supply of seafood of every shape, size and colour - including snails, large and green and a bit strange! - I headed off at the crack of dawn on the plane to Milan. The reason to fly there was for an interview - but I had found out that the company in question had cancelled the interview. So I hired a car and drove back to Trieste - a terrible journey with traffic-filled autostrade, clogged with foul air from the lorries heading for Milan - and expensive too!
The upside was that I was able to be in Trieste in time for the Back to School BBQ at Chris and Dodi's house! The memories of the bad journey faded quickly with cevapcici (like a Balkan seekh kebab), terrano wine, and a jam session in the garden and inside as the sun set over the sea in the distance...
Magical way to come home to Trieste!

Agriturismo and Antas

We got back on the road after brekkie – curling thru the hills again this time towards Oristano. It's a nice town, very quiet but we had an interesting stop in the cathedral with grass all around the altar – very unusual. Had cappucini and pastries in the main square. Very good and reminded me of Macau.
Then onto the road again, heading for the south. We stopped at agriturismo near Buggerru (ok, oher places were closer, but I love the name!) for pasquetta lunch – delicious and so kind of the guy to squeeze us in at the last minute.
Then onto the temple of Antas, near Fluminimaggiore – very interesting to see the temple in lovely position –although first restored in 2something AD it was built in 500 BC – in a beautiful valley – v interesting.
From there, onto Isola S. Antioco but nothing special from what we could see so doubled back to an albergo connected to a rest in the slow food guide = in Giba. Restaurant was closed and albergo nothing special – its been a long time since I saw wardrobes covered with 1970s floral wallpaper. Hopped in the car to the furthest south point we went to – Porto Pino = beautiful white sands and the mediterranean sea.
Then dinner at an unimposing pizzeria with great mussel soup and pasta – and scrummy tomatoes, before heading back to the 1970s travel lodge and watching Grease on the TV – dubbed into Italian. All the songs were translated – sometimes with interesting results!
In the morning we realised that the restaurant must be famous - Jacques Cousteau and Frankie Di Tori had both signed the walls after a dinner there.
We went off to the local cheese factory to buy some pecorino to take away with us. And later continued the shopping at the Argiolas vineyard for Turriga and Korem wines - delicious.


Buona Pasqua in Bonacardo

In Alghero we had a great meal on the waterfront as the sun set over the lighthouse we had sailed past earlier in the day – a good way to forget the stolen bag! All the lights are covered with red cloth, giving Alghero a magical feeling. In the morning the grand prix was on the TV, and seemed to attract more people than the Easter church activities.
All of Alghero were out in the town – the streets were busy but shops all closed – a shame as some lovely things to buy from the look of the windows.
Then we went onto Bosa – lovely but not a lot of time to look around.
After a fabulous drive along windy roads, like a car ad, and so much fun in the Alfa!, we went to Bonarcado for lunch. Recommended in the Slow Food guide – a list of the best restaurants in Italy where they still cook in traditional fashion with the best local ingredients - one of our major resources for the trip.
Having arrived and seeing it was gorgeous, we ordered a litre of the house red, so decided to stay the night. Accomodation was in a small cottage with a lawn outside and sheep in the fields all around. We had a fabulous lunch, and very relaxing afternoon reading mags and relaxing in the sun – with the Italian guests all playing footy. Dinner was back in the same restaurant - very chilled out.

Alghero Dolphins and Thieves

Slow start on day 2 with jet lag kicking in for Mum and Dad. Beautiful views to Castelsardo in the morning – and out to sea. Sun shining brightly.
On the way to Alghero, we stopped off the superstrada at the Sella & Mosca vineyard – its beautiful but enormous! We bought a bottle of red and a bottle of white to drink throughout the trip.
Then across the road from the vineyard we went to Anghelli Ruju - neolythic tombs. They are very interesting – and about 5,000 years old so we stopped for about 30 minutes.
But on returning to the car, which we parked in the shade, a shock – we had been broken into and they stole Mum’s new bag (about 3 days old) containing wallet, bank cards etc. In many ways we were lucky though - Dad had the passport, me her BlackBerry and the rest of the things in the car, more monetarily valuable. It was a horrid feeling though, and I am just pleased that they got not even one Euro (I hadn’t given Mum the money I owed her yet) so there was HK$200 and a supermarket card more or less.
Special mentions to Mum for being so cool about it and not letting it ruin her day, to the 2 guys at the Anghelli Ruju with us who took us to the police station, to the poliziotto who let me do a denuncia even though it was after closing hours, and to the lovely guy at Europcar at the airport who changed the car without a question, and even upgraded us to an Alfa.
But things then started to look up. We drove away from the airport and caught a boat to Neptune’s Grotto. We had no desire to go into cave, so spent lovely hour in the sunshine, bobbing about on the waves whilst the rest of the group went in. Then a scoot around Cormorant Island on the way back (called that because cormorants nest there). On coming back towards the lighthouse, the luck changed – 2 dolphins were jumping out of the waves in the sunshine in front of us! The first time I have seen them in the wild. If I was a dolphin though, I would have been there – beautiful sea miles deep, few boats and sunshine.
Then we tried to get into an agriturismo – all full – before ending up in Alghero town at a little hotel. We had a lovely evening walking around Alghero and dinner on the waterfront. Delightful.



Olbia - La Maddalena - Castelsardo

After a journey to forget, (plane cancelled, ferry delayed for 3 hours, no dinner) I finally arrived in Sardegna. Olbia is under construction – will be nice when its finished – if it ever is! Good shops, prosperous and trendy but cement mixers everywhere – all building at the same time
There are though, still touches of old Sardegna - a special mention to the octogenarian woman in the tabaccheria in Piazza Regina Madonnina with a jet black rinse in her hair, thick 1960s glasses and fuschia lipstick – fabulous!
We picked up the hire car and got on the road at last and up to the Costa Smeralda. Wrong turns took us past resorts nestled in the hills, invisible from the road, snuggled against the rocks and beneath the trees – really beautiful. The sea is spotless, and you can see down to the bottom, and the blue of the sea plays off the green of the hills and the yellow-tinged rock making each colour seem all the more vivid.
We pushed onto Palau and then with the car on the ferry to La Maddalena. I have no doubt it is bustling in the summer – all establishments were painting, washing, and sprucing up in advance of the May season kick off. The ferry is so easy – there are 3 companies, and 3 ferries an hour. For E42 the 3 of us and the car went there and back and the trip in the sunshine was beautiful – if anything, maybe not long enough!
Lunch was at a hotel recommended in one of the 3 guides I was dragging around with me – and was excellent! Fish that tasted as if it had just been caught that morning, and Mum and Dad managed to get past the visual impact of the large pieces of octopus to actually try it – and enjoy it!
We walked over the road to see the sea and admire the rocks. La Maddalena – and in fact a lot of the coast – looks like one big sculpture project. The rocks have been crafted by time and the wind into the most amazing shapes. The weather must be pretty wild out here at times to have this much effect on the stone.
The weather was settling in in the afternoon, and Dad was making the most of some open road country driving so we zoomed through the countryside slightly inside the coast to Castelsardo where we stopped for the night. The landscape changes dramatically off the coast – with it looking less like the Hong Kong outlying islands, and more like the north of Scotland. Mum was itching to get into an Agriturismo.
Our home for the night in Castelsardo was the grandly named Hotel Il Castello. It is true that you can see the castle from here – and maybe the name comes from the fact that the furniture hails from the same century – the 12th! It’s a bit eclectic – the owner is older than my granddad, and equally sprightly! And we had to be careful on the way in of the moss on the terrace (slippery when wet)! But it was good value and comfy for all its madness.
In the evening we went for a walk around Castelsardo – nothing special – but the view from the castle at the top is lovely and worth the climb. Then onto a pizza place for dinner and a bottle of the local red wine – the first of many!



Offline

Sorry for the delay - I was away in Sardegna so offline for a bit! Here are some updates on the hols and the things that have been going on since the last post - 9 days ago!

Wednesday, April 04, 2007

Il Mercato

The market is back in Trieste.
When I first came here a year ago, there was a market all along the canal, and the place was bustling with shoppers.
I assumed when I returned in the summer, that it was just on summer break - but found out later that it only comes once a year at Easter!
So it is a strange reminder to see the stalls out again - it seems a lot longer than a year ago when I was here. How the stalls are coping with the blustery wind today, I am not sure, but I am about to run out of school and head downtown so I will find out then.
Tomorrow I am off at the crack of dawn to Roma, and onto Sardegna for a holiday for a week. So TriesteTrasmissione will be going on tour too... more updates either on the road, or when I return.
Buona Pasqua a tutti!

Flat Stanley

Yesterday after a 6 hour session on creativity and lateral thinking we were asked by Karoline, the school's marketing manager to colour in some 'Flat Stanley's for the kids in her Mum's kindergarten class in the States. The idea is that the children send out these little characters to be coloured in and sent back with names and nationalities on the back. Unfortunately the kids didn't know anyone overseas, so we are their international rent-a-crowd. The children of Racine will now be getting coloured in Flat Stanleys from Hong Kong, Romania, Slovenia, Italy, Mongolia, Costa Rica, Turkey - the list goes on....
Here are some pics of MBA students reverting to their childish roots and getting creative!



Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Piccolo Paese

Massimo's family house in the country is beautiful. Saturday night we cooked, drank wine, sat around the fireplace, talked, laughed (a lot!) played some silly games (laughing a lot more) and eventually collapsed into bed. Sunday morning we woke up to the sounds of the birds singing, and the smell of the fresh mountain air scented with pine.
Incredible, really. Its a side of Italy that not many people see for real - in a small paese with a house with beams and a cellar, and stocks of wine and salami, and a wood burning stove. With nothing for miles around. Its completely relaxing and just what was needed after all the exams and everything.
The pics don't do it justice, but here are some anyway....


2 Postscripts

2 things I need to note:-
One of the other blogs in Michael's top 10 list is not for the faint-hearted, or the under 18s, or for you Mum, or Dad, or Grandad...
The other is that poor Chiara, the IMTL secondee to the MBA women's footy team broke her arm playing on Thursday night. Get well soon Chiara - I feel quite guilty given that I gently encouraged her to play in the first place. (She assures me that she will still play again - as soon as the cast is off!)

Hitting the big time!

When I first arrived at MIB, and began my education about Slovenia (still patchy, but I hear that I have had more Ljublanska in the last few months than Vlasta has had in the last 20 years) I was sent the link to The Glory of Carniola blog, written by Michael Manske - originally from New York, who comments about life in Slovenia - and its eccentricities! It's very amusing and has a big fan base, and press coverage too!
So I am very flattered to have made his Best of the Slobs - Top 10 highlights from the Slovenian Blogsphere list!
Thanks Michael, for the mention, I am a regular reader. And a fan of Slovenia too - we were there again on Sunday night, for ljubljanska, again!

Alza Bandiere

A funny story from Max's trip to the carabiniere in Verona to make a statement about his computer. They told him he needed to wait until they had played the alza bandiere - and raised the Italian flag in the courtyard.
He waited about 30 minutes, and a few minutes before 9, someone appeared with a portable hifi.
In the courtyard, the other officers gathered.
At 9 - the stereo operator pressed play. The flag raiser pulled quickly on the roaps and the flag shot up the mast, within about 5 notes of the tune.
Then "Stop" on the stereo - off with the music, away with the stereo, and on with Max's statement. I think he expected more pomp and circumstance.

Fabulous Verona (apart from the theives...)




Friday and Saturday we were in Verona. Chris' friend Nico who speaks about 6 languages and knows a huge amount about the history of Verona showed us around on Friday evening and Saturday morning.
I have heard that many people in Italy don't really think that Verona is anything very special, but from my point of view it was absolutely lovely. A little reminiscent of Florence with the river snaking through the middle of the city, we had a great walk around, looking at the castle, and the view down to the river and the city below from the top of the hill - it was quite a climb, but worth it!
Verona - up in the North East of Italy - is clearly a wealthy city. The people are very well dressed and there was a lot of shopping going on (and some fabulous stores). We joined the thousands of Asians queing to take a picture with their hand on Giulietta's - as in Romeo and.... - breast (poor giulietta - it is such a dignified statue and a most undignified scene!) The whole thing is made worse somehow by the wall of grafitti on the way in - declarations of love written in tippex, hot pink marker and paint are less than romantic for me! Maybe the Veronese should take a leaf out of the Japanese book, and put trees so people can tie declarations of lurve to those on paper - much prettier - and less cleaning up too! We didn't make it up to the balcony either.
The osterie in Verona are also lovely - we found one under the arches for drinking a glass of wine and eating a panini. Yum - and cheap at only about 2 euros a head.
The only downside in the Verona segment was that someone broke into Massimo's car and snatched his pc from the boot. It was clearly a professional job - the cars were parked close together in a quiet residential street and they smashed the window and helped themselves. It was a good reminder that I need to think about security sometimes - I am a bit complacent about this stuff after Hong Kong, and Max's encounter started the exchange of stories, with one of his friends saying that their car had once been broken into for a pair of shoes.
But don't let the theives put you off - Verona is a fabulous city and well worth a visit. I might try to go back in the summer, to see Aida at the Arena. Or to go to lake Garda. Or to Soave.....

Monday, April 02, 2007

Venerdi Vinitaly Verona

Friday was the long-awaited trip to Vinitaly, THE wine event in Italy. We had been planning the trip for about 2 months - it was amazing to finally get to Verona. It was even more amazing to get to the showground as we were in traffic for the car park for over an hour. Big thanks to Luca for the driving, Dodi for supplying the sweets for the car, and to McDonalds for inadvertently lending us a spot in their car park - or else we might still be in the traffic outside the showground. It's a good job that it was something worth queing for - perhaps if it was a show at the Fiera of chemicals or household cleaning appliances buyers would be in their cars heading away again! Although maybe if it was one of those things on show there would not be so much traffic.....

Back on the football field

Thursday night the girls took to the soccer pitch again. The invitation to play was sent to all the MIB courses - International Masters in Tourism and Leisure, the Masters in Insurance and Risk Management and of course to us. In addition the visiting executive MBA students from EADA in Spain were invited to play. The guys quickly gathered a team and they were set up for a 4 team round robin competition.
As the exams were finished though (barring resits!) the girls were also keen to play. I gathered the team list and we had 9 volunteers ready to play. Unfortunately, there were only 4 other girls ready to play.
It surprises me that girls playing football is still seen as a bit revolutionary in Italy. Many of the other girls didn't want to play because they knew nothing about football. Some just said, no, they don't play football, and I got the impression that others seemed to think we were crazy to ask! The owner of the football field also complained that allowing the girls to play was a waste of 15 minutes of pitch time - charming!
These outdated opinions however didn't stop the 8 MBA girls, along with one IMTL and one MIRM ringer from having a game. We also turned down the option for a smaller pitch scoring on wooden boards, opting instead for a faster, running 5 a side game. We ran a lot, and had a giggle, but ended up in a no-score draw. Finally we settled the game with penalties, but with 4 MBA girls on each team, we have kept both the winners and the second place cups!
I suspect much to the disappointment of the pitch manager, we would like to play again. And maybe we managed to convince some of the girls from the other courses that it is OK for girls to play footy!
The girls were followed onto the pitch by the MBA guys playing the final against IMTL. It was a match that really brought out the passion in Italian football - with some Oscar-winning floor-rolling by some of the opposition! In the end we had a 3 cup tally in the MBA classroom - now if only we can find out where we put them for safe keeping....