The Panettone / Pane scandal

Tonight on the news (RAI1) the story of the price of bread.
Apparantly in Bologna its more expensive to buy bread than Panettone. (Panettone - either pane-t-one, big bread, or pan del tone, bread of luxury, - is a tall bread / fruit cake eaten at Christmas that hails from Milan - and is good with almost everything from Mascarpone, to jam, to a glass of sweet wine or liquer)
One lady on the report said that she feels like she is buying a jewel every time she goes into a bakers.
I guess that's a positive vote for the baker!
Also on the news tonight, an article on how to make the Euro stretch further this Christmas. Sliced tongue (boiled in salted water then sliced) and Tripe of all kinds were recommended.
From the straining buttons on the jacket of the anchorman, I would guess he has been tucking in more to Panettone than to sliced tongue.

There's Florentines on the streets of Florence tonight

I guess they are all shopping, but the ratio of locals to tourists is definitely different from normal and its lovely to see!
It wasn't quite so lovely this morning when it took me an hour to drive to the city (all 3 kilometres) but tonight as I did my last minute (actually, my only!) shopping, it was super.
Amongst those that I saw, some people deserve a special mention.
To the Granny in the full-length fur I saw riding a moped and later in the town - i LOVE your bright red tights. I'm not sure I would ever be brave enough to wear them, (the poem says "When I am old, I shall wear purple", but there is no mention of red!) but good on you for the courage!
To the Sexy Santa in the fur trimmed mini dress standing outside the Disney Store - I SAW you sneaking a puff on your friend's cigarette in the doorway! I guess Santas of any variety are not supposed to smoke - especially if they work for Disney! - but it made me laugh!
To the man in the market who conspiratorily whispered to me the assurance that I was getting local prices, and not tourist ones, I'm not sure if it is true, but I thank him for it anyway!
Tonight the city belongs to the locals. Unfortunately so do the streets and the traffic is horrendous. I am going to stay here tonight and head off in the morning to Marche early. And before that I am going to get a few small things at the Florentine supporters shop - and I'm going on foot!

Fine Family Dining in Bad Lippspringe

Sunday morning in Germany, and my uncle and his wife came over with my cousin, and my Grandad, and we all went out for lunch.
Lucy had booked lunch at the Fischerhutte, a lovely restaurant nearby to Bad Lippspringe where we sat in a conservatory and tucked into such delights as venison and dumplings.
Finally we also managed to have some of the German cake I had been promised before the trip.
My blackforest gateaux was absolutely worth the wait!
It was cold and wintery outside so, after a quick stop-off to pack my things, we went to Paderborn for a look at the town (very pretty) and the Christmas Market.



The Paderborn market was small, but nicely done and seemed to have more handicrafts and interesting items than perhaps the one in Dortmund, which was huge but in some alleys full of tat.
I managed to do a bit of shopping in Paderborn too, buying an incense lady from ex-East Germany. These are carved figures with lots of detail - mine likes travelling and has a coat with e a fur-trimmed collar and a map - into which you put incense. Once the incense is lit, the puffs of smoke come out of the mouth of the figure which is formed in a surprised 'O'. Its kitch but nice.
Following Paderborn, I began the journey back to Italy. It was the end of a great and varied weekend in Germany. I am still not a fan of the food or the wine, but I will be back for the rest!

Cinderella SHALL go to the ball

The ball at the army base was something that Luce and Bruce had had on the calendar for ages - well-organised army folk that they are! But Luce managed to negotiate me not only a ticket, but also a place at their table for the dinner on Saturday night.
Set in the army officers mess on the base (from the outside, the base is a very spooky spot - an ex-Hitler Youth training facility) the people that live in the mess had really gone to town with the decorations, and there were lights, and tasteful garlands galore. When we walked in there was a fire burning in the grate and people were huddling around the Christmas tree drinking mugs of mulled wine - a very warm welcome in all senses!
Once we sat down to dinner, we quickly stood up again, as a part of the carols game, invented by a bloke on our table where the tables all had to sing one line each and then sit down according to the directions hidden under our placemats. It was hilarious - a great way to start off.
Crackers pulled, it was soon time for dinner. And the Chef and his team had rustled up an amazing spread (he was new to the base, so was proving his superior abilities over the former chef apparantly!), with pork, beef, venison, boar, you name it, it was there. He looked exhausted, but happy as everyone complimented the new team - they had even organised a small zen garden by the buffet where the food was kept.
We turned down the dancing as Luce was tired and wanted to go home. But the great thing is, once everyone in out group had finally managed to say goodbye to the bloke in charge - a pass-by is compulsory before the night is out apparantly - the minibus outside took us all the way back to the house.
It wasn't quite a pumpkin chariot drawn by horses, but at 1 in the morning, was possibly even more welcome.
(photos to follow - i have some connection issues)

Dortmund and Gluhwine

Saturday morning bright and early Mum and I got on the train to Dortmund for a look at the Christmas Market and in an attempt to buy me a dress for the ball that evening. (There was a Lost in the Mail moment with the other one that was due to arrive.)
I don't know what the temperature was (COLD) but once we were on the train, we soon forgot the chill - the speed was unbelievable.
The scenery is unremarkable, very flat and not helped by the cold of the winter sky. But Dortmund was busy when we got there, and after a little wandering around, we found the Christmas market.
The tree in Dortmund is said to be one of the biggest of the christmas markets in Germany, and it was enormous! There was a range of food available to warm up with, but Mum and I could not resist the Chinese noodles, washed down with a mug of Gluhwine (make that a cappucino for Mum). Once you have drained the dregs of your cup, you have to get handy with the tissues, because included in the 3 Euro fee for gluhwine with a shot of rum in it, is the cup. At least, the other people we saw at the drinks stand were drying their mugs and slipping them in their bags, so we guessed it was OK to follow suit!
There is a wide variety of things at the Christmas market. From the ubiquitous Chinese-made toys and other rubbish, to beautiful handicrafts - hand spun glass angels, carved wooden items, wreaths and door decorations for the festivities are all there to be had.
But number one priority was a dress for the ball. Heading into a big department store, we eventually found the sale department, and came across a lovely frock on the cut price racks. Perfect.
To celebrate our successful purchase, we had another wander around the market, and stopped for a carved ham sandwich, the hams were boiling and roasting at the back of the stall, and at the front you got a small roll with 4 tonnes of warm ham, some german mustard and kraut if that floats your boat (yes for mum, oh no for me!) Absolutely delicious and just what the doctor ordered on such a cold day.
As we left Dortmund it did seem a pity to be leaving so soon. The crowds were definitely increasing in number as the day went on, and there was quite a party atmosphere by the time we left. Perhaps this was due the choir's rousing - if unsmiling- rendition of 'Feliz Navidad'. Well done girls, you were great! But next time, try to smile too!

You can have anything... as long as its Schnitzel

In Germany this weekend we went to a restaurant on Friday night after the journey from hell. (Made a lot more bearable by my travel mate, caterer-come-stand-up comedian Jason, who had competed in the Florence Marathon thanks to Sharon Stone! Send me the pics Jason, and I'll write more!)
The Shilo Ranch is famous in Bad Lippspringe and the environs, they offer many things - as long as its Schnitzel! Mine came with cheese (a bit like a lublianska but cheese on the outside) and came with wine - when I asked what kind of wine it was, the waitress told me I could taste it very well... She was right! But I don't think Oz Clarke or Hugh Johnston or other wine writers would be tasting it very well in a hurry - not more than once anyway!

Comment of the day

Today the comment of the day goes to my Grandad, who lives in the South East of England, on the coast near Brighton.
When we were chatting on Skype tonight (he's VERY techy my Grandad!) I sent him the link to the pictures I took of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
He said "Crikey! Look at that! It's really leaning!"
(Much like my own reaction when I saw it.)
Then he followed up with a classic Grandad quote.
"Just imagine if it was here. With the winds we have...!"

That's Amore

Luca at work asked me at lunchtime why a Hong Kong brit would choose to move to Italy. Apparantly a mayor was in the paper today recommending that everyone in his town jump ship as there are no jobs, too much tax, strikes etc etc....
All of that is true, although I was lucky enough to find a job, the strikes are a pain, and the tax more so.
But I think one of the best things about being in a place that is not your home by birth is the unexpected moments that happen during the day.
Take this morning as an example. I was running late, so I missed the early train. Which meant I had more time to spare before I went to the station.
I decided to grab a cappucino on Viale dei Mille, which is on the way.
The bar was busy, and I made my way to the bar and ordered. The barrista made me a cappucino, and when I looked, he had done that trick with the pouring of the milk that results in a heart shape on the top of the foam.
As the people around me started to laugh, he put it slowly down on the counter in front of me, and said, 'That's Amore!'
Me and the fellow patrons all laughed out loud.
Who would not want to live in a place where a day can start like this?

Presnitz, Gubana and other unknown things

In Hong Kong we are accustomed to being able to get specialities from around the world in the supermarkets and delicatessens. Here in Italy, food, like so many other things, is much more regionalised or localised. This is great for fruit and veg, as everything has that just-out-of-the-ground-or-off-the-tree taste, but it sometimes seems a shame for things like wine - in Tuscany I can get some great Chianti, but no refosco (from up North) for example.
This becomes even more noticeable when it comes to the regional goodies. In Trieste, one of my favourite treats is Presnitz, but it is almost impossible (as far as I can see) to find in Tuscany.
The history of Presnitz goes like this according to Friuli DOC:-
"At the beginning of the 19th century there occured an important event, which involved the whole city of Trieste. In order to receive “Sissi” the Empress of the Austrian - Hungarian Empire on the occasion of her visit to Miramare castle, the city organized an elaborate festival.
Contests and competitions were organised for arts and crafts, gastronomy, pastries and confectionery. In an elegant cake shop in the city centre, there appeared for the first time a cake made especially for the occassion, written above it was, “if you travel the world, you will return here.” It had been given the name the “Preis Prinzessin” ( Princess Prize) . The people of Trieste affectionately changed this to “Presnitz” in no time at all. In this manner Trieste blessed a cake destined to become a part of tradition and special occassions.
The ingredients are: Fruit, walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, raisins, pine kernels, liqueur , rolled in a thin crust pastry."
Like a cross between a Christmas cake and a cornish pasty - its delicious! So this weekend on my trip up North, I bought a small one which we shared in the office yesterday with a cup of green tea at about 4, and now have requests to bring some back the next time I go Trieste-way.
This weekend, I am planning to bring back something else form my trip to Germany - Leibkuchen perhaps. Even without regional specialities, the new Monday afternoon tea in the office ritual might stick.

Beautiful Trieste

This weekend I was back in beautiful Trieste.
Not that we need an excuse to go back, but this weekend was the Alumni Dinner for the school. It was a chance for us all to get together and have a glass of wine or two!
Trieste is lovely at any time of year, but Christmas in the city is wonderful. Piazza Unita' was full of trees, all decorated, and the Christmas music was playing - it's very festive.
When I arrived (45 minutes late, thanks to the trains!) Massi met me, and, as we were walking to get some lunch, we saw fighter jets fly past to leave a trail of Tricolore-coloured smoke over the Adriatic.
Lunch was in Buffet Rudy, boiled meats and sausages, with horseradish (grated, not the creamy stuff like in the UK) and mustard. We were unsure what to order, but as soon as the guy mentioned Patate in Tecia (like yummy mashed potatoes) we both decided that plus something - basically anything!
Once we found Ale, and the B&B - Affitacamere Ghega, near the station, cheap and basic - we dumped our bags then headed out to the old faithful Bar Walter for some prosecco. Just for old time's sake!
The dinner at Birreria Forst was fun, and we had a bit of a dance later on around the beer pumps before heading back to Nanut, and onto Mandracchio - the usual circuit.
The night in the B&B was short, but seemed long, Vlasta found the blankets at 9am, so we were warm for only about a half an hour before the man came to tell us he needed the rooms. We left in a hurry, and were not surprised that there was not a mad stampede of people waiting to come in. But hey, the location was FABULOUS and the price pretty great too - at 25 euros a night! And perhaps if we had come home at a reasonable time, we would have found the covers earlier! The B&Bs are great value, not luxurious, but there is a bed and a shower, although often communal, so everything you need really. The buildings are often really fancy, as the B&Bs usually are derived from converted family hand-me-down apartments of monstrous proportions that have been converted. This palazzo was stunning, especially the lift which was a work of art, boasting even a seat to rest on as you went up and down. Fabulous!
Sunday started like all good Sundays should, with a leisurely coffee and a chat whilst reading the papers and catching up on the night before. Vlasta went off to the airport and on to Brussels, but over lunch in another Buffet, people from the night before slowly straggled in.
Trains from Trieste were cancelled - yet ANOTHER strike - unbelieveable! - so after a quick coffee with Giulia, Ale gave me, Ciccio and Chris a lift to Portogruaro station in his new motor so we could catch the train.
As soon as I changed trains at Mestre, and got into the First Class cabin on the way to Florence, I closed my eyes for a much-needed nap. Next thing I knew we were at Santa Maria Novella.
All too soon, back at the Residence, and then the alarm was going off - time for work again.
But another great thing about seeing each other is that we have planned the next party - 2 weeks time in Udine!

Grinding to a halt

The strike thing is still something that I find hard to come to terms with. The short amount of time I spent in the UK, was the era of the destruction of the unions by Maggie Thatcher, and in Hong Kong people just don't strike. Its just not something that people do!
I have written about strikes before, but yesterday's was remarkable for 2 reasons.
Firstly it was coordinated for maximum impact. Meaning buses, trains, planes, everything stopped at the same time for 8 hours.
Secondly was the comparative lack of coverage. I had to search for mention of the strike on the BBC this morning - a big difference from when there is striking in France or in Germany, and it seems to get bigger coverage. Perhaps it is more a thing people just get on with here.
As for me, I work far from where I live at the moment. So huge thanks to the boss for agreeing to a cab to get me home.